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In a pinch, a strap wrench might do the job if you're ok with not measuring the applied torque. Note that the standard AR-15 armourer's wrench will not work with this barrel nut, you need a 1-1/16" wrench that is narrower than 13mm (½") such as our crow's foot wrench. May need some dremeling where the piston cup slides back and forth Not compatible with: AR-308 Tools required: 1-1/16" crow's foot wrench, barrel nut grease, upper vice block, and torque wrench strongly recommended. Newer model WK's are very tight and it is recommended to still swap the barrel nut if you have issues WK180-C - just unscrew the factory handguard and clamp on this one (no barrel wrench required). (1) 4mm hex key You need to get separately: AR-15 receiver Compatible with: AR-15/M16 upper variants that use a standard barrel nut You get: (1) Handguard of the specified length Steel barrel nut 40 × 51mm (W × H) along most of the body. Picatinny on top, M-LOK on the sides and bottomĪnodized aluminum body (except Flat Dark Earth, which is painted) A 1-1/16" wrench or ideally a crow's foot will be required to tighten the new barrel nut to a torque of 30-50 foot pounds. The clamp-on design means that you don't need to time the barrel nut. It is a 1-piece design that requires the removal and changeout of the barrel nut with the nut that is included. You get a Picatinny rail on top and 3 MLOK rails on the sides/bottom. It is a free-float clamp-on design that looks freaking bada$$.
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This is a low-profile, lightweight M-LOK handguard for the AR-15/M16 platform.
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